Ford Anglia 105E - 300 Mile (500 km) First Check and Service Schedule

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300m First
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Ford Anglia 105E - 300 Mile (500 km) First Check and Service Schedule

It is impossible to over emphasise the importance of correct lubrication, inspection and running adjustments, if you wish to obtain the best level of service from your Ford Anglia and Ford Prefect. At the first 300 Miles (500 km) it is advisable to have a “1000 Mile Service” carried out on the car, with particular attention to the first six points. (In the later Handbooks and Manuals, this periodic service was extended to the first 500 miles).
The 300 Mile service incorporates:
(Key: This Colour = Daily Service items, This Colour = Weekly Service items, This Colour = 1000 Mile Service Items)

Change the Engine Oil
Change the Engine Oil Filter Element
Check Cylinder Head Bolts
Check and Adjust Valve Clearances (if necessary)
Check the Wheel Nuts
Check the Clutch Adjustment at Operating Cylinder
Check the Radiator Level
Check the Petrol Level in the Tank
Check the Windscreen is Clean
Check the Battery Electrolyte Level
Check the Brake and Clutch Fluid Reservoir Levels
Check the Operation of all Lights
Check the Tyre Pressures
Check the Gearbox Oil Level
Check the Rear Axle Oil Level
Check the Steering Box Oil Level
Check the Fan Belt Adjustment
Check the Clutch Adjustment at Operating Cylinder
Check the Windscreen Washer Level (where fitted)
Check the Seat Belts for Security and Wear (where fitted)
Lubricate all Grease Gun Points (L1 - L5)
Lubricate Linkages and Locks
Lubricate the Distributor

Clean the Oil Filler Cap
The oil filler cap also acts as an engine ventilator and it is advisable to remove any accumulation of foreign matter from the gauze, when changing the engine oil.

To clean the dry gauze type cap it is only necessary to wash this in petrol or paraffin and then dip in engine oil, shaking out the surplus. Although a small job, this is quite important as Ford engines do breathe quite heavily.

Change the Engine Oil
This service item covers both this item and the next item, which is to drain the oil and change the oil filter element.

Check the oil with the dipstick. If the oil on the dipstick appears dirty for any reason before this mileage is reached, the engine should be refilled with clean new oil and the filter element replaced.

Place a suitable container under the sump drain plug. Do not overlook the fact that there may be up to 4 ½ pints of oil in the sump, so use a drain pan of sufficient size to hold this quantity of oil. Remove the sump drain plug. The engine oil will drain out more easily when warm and, at the same time, will tend to remove any foreign matter present in the sump.

When all of the oil has been drained away, replace the drain plug. A good quality flushing oil may be used in the engine, but in NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD PARAFFIN BE USED TO FLUSH OUT THE CRANKCASE.

Replace the oil filter element (as detailed below). Pour the appropriate quantity of correct grade oil in through the filler neck, run the engine for a short while, allow to stand, and then check the oil level on the dipstick, topping up as required.

Warning – Do not pour old oil down the sink or into any water drain. Place it in an old container and dispose of it at your local Council Oil Recycling Centre.

Change the Engine Oil Filter Element
The oil filter is fitted direct onto the cylinder block, no connecting pipes to the engine being required. To change the element, first drain the oil (as above) and undo the hexagon headed bolt retaining the filter unit to the cylinder block, and withdraw the filter assembly. Withdraw the filter element from the casing and replace it with the new element.

A new rubber sealing ring is supplied with each element. Remove the existing ring, then locate the new ring in the groove at four diametrically opposite points. Do not fit the gasket at one point and then work it round the groove, as the rubber may stretch, thus leaving a surplus, which could cause an oil leak.

Refit the filter assembly to the cylinder block and retighten the bolt.

Check Cylinder Head Bolts
To check the cylinder head bolts, remove the valve rocker cover by undoing the four retaining screws. Be careful not to damage the rocker cover gasket

The cylinder head bolts should be tightened at this mileage in the sequence illustrated opposite.

Take care not to over tighten the cylinder head bolts as this will only impose excessive strain. If possible, use a torque wrench and tighten the bolts to 65-70 lb/ft

When replacing the rocker cover ensure that the gasket is correctly positioned on the cylinder head to avoid oil leaks

Check the Valve Clearances and Adjust (if necessary)
Open the bonnet and listen to the engine carefully. If there is a clattering sound from the top of the engine, and the sound increases both in loudness and noise as the engine speed is increased, then it is best to check and adjust the valve clearances. Each cylinder has a pair of valves; one inlet and one exhaust, and each valve is operated by its rocker arm.
To check or adjust the valve clearances, remove the valve rocker cover by undoing the four retaining screws. Be careful not to damage the rocker cover gasket.

The valve clearance adjusting screws will then be exposed, and the clearance should be adjusted to 0.010 in (0.254 mm) for the inlet valves and 0.017 in (0.432 mm) for the exhaust valves, with the engine at normal operating temperature.

First Valve Valve Numbering

In order to ensure that each valve is fully closed, check as follows:-

Valves Open 1 and 6 .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 3 and 8 .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 2 and 4 .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 5 and 7 .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Exhaust Valves Nos 1, 4, 5 and 8	Valves to Adjust 3 and 8 1 and 6 5 and 7 2 and 4 Inlet Valves Nos 2, 3, 6 and 7
To adjust a rocker, slacken off the adjusting screw locknut and insert a feeler blade between the toe of the rocker and the valve end. Turn the adjusting screw until the correct clearance has been obtained and tighten the locknut. Recheck the gap after tightening the locknut to make sure it hasn’t moved. When replacing the rocker cover ensure that the gasket is correctly positioned on the cylinder head to avoid oil leaks.
Wheel Nuts It is good practise to check all of the Wheel Nuts on a regular basis for tightness. Do not use any sort of extension bar, as ordinary pressure exerted on the handle of the wheel brace supplied with your vehicle is sufficient.
Check the Radiator Level The cooling system is pressurised by means of a spring loaded pressure radiator cap. If the vehicle has been running and is hot, allow it to cool down before attempting to remove the radiator cap. Warning – Do not remove the radiator cap when the water is near boiling point, as this may cause water and steam to be blown back out of the filler neck at pressure, possibly causing personal injury. Remove the radiator filler cap slowly, by pushing down slightly and twisting it to release it. Check the water level in the top of the radiator. Top up as necessary with the correct anti-freeze / water mixture, to approximately one inch (25 mm) below the bottom of the filler to allow for expansion of the coolant as the engine warms up. Once the radiator has been topped, the radiator cap can be replaced.

Check the Petrol Level in the Tank
Before any journey ensure that the level of fuel in the tank is sufficient for immediate needs. This can easily be ascertained by switching on the ignition, and observing the reading of the fuel gauge fitted on the instrument panel. It is advisable not to let the level in the petrol tank fall too low as any dirt or particles within the tank / petrol will find their way into the fuel lines. If there is insufficient fuel for immediate needs then the petrol tank needs to be topped up.

Check the Windscreen is Clean
To ensure you have good visibilty whilst driving, clean your windscreen with a clean dry cloth and an appropriate vehicle glass cleaner.

Check the Battery Electrolyte Level
The battery is accessibly located under the bonnet, within the engine compartment. Remove the filler caps and check that the electrolyte in each cell is 1/4 to 3/8 in (6.35 to 9.525 mm) above the tops of the plates. If below this level add distilled water as necessary. (In cold weather the distilled water should only be added immediately before running the engine, so that when the generator is charging, the water and electrolye will mix and prevent freezing.) The filler caps can now be refitted.

Keep the battery filler caps and battery connections tight and the top of the battery clean.

A coating of petroleum jelly will protect the battery terminals. Occasionally check the battery clamp to ensure that the mounting wings nuts are tight and the battery is still secure in the battery tray.

Excessive use of distilled water by the battery is usually an indication of an unduly high generator-charging rate and you should consult an Auto Electrician or your Authorised Ford Dealer and have the charging system checked.

Check the Brake and Clutch Fluid Reservoir Levels
The brake and clutch fluid reservoirs are located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the car and are integral with their master cylinders. When checking or replenishing the system wipe the sides of the reservoirs and caps with a clean dry cloth to prevent any dirt entering the system. Do not use a cloth that is greasy or has been soaked in petrol or paraffin etc.

Remove each cap by unscrewing it and top up if necessary to the level indicated on the reservoir casing (approximately 5/8 in (16mm) from the rim). Use only the correct brake fluid, obtainable from your Authorised Ford Dealer.

Warning – MINERAL OILS MUST NOT BE USED IN ANY CIRCUMSTANCES FOR TOPPING UP THE RESERVOIRS.

Check the Tyre Pressures
It is necessary to keep the tyre pressures at the specified figures, checking the pressures at least once a week is recommended. It's not always apparent that air is being lost, but it generally escapes at the rate of up to two pounds of air every month. More air is usually lost during warm weather, so more regular checks are needed when temperatures rise. Incorrect tyre pressures or excessive wear can adversely affect the steering and braking of the car. The tyre pressure should be checked before a run whilst the tyres are cold, as a hot tyre will give a higher reading. If the tyres are checked hot, do not, in any circumstances, bleed off this increase in pressure.
The air pressure in the tyres has a pronounced effect on the action of the brakes, as well as the correct operation of the front suspension and steering gear.

To check the pressure of a tyre, remove the valve cap and press a suitable tyre gauge firmly ito place. If necessary sufficient air should be added to bring the tyre pressure up to the amount specified. Do not forget to check the pressure of the spare wheel.
Do not forget to refit the valve cap.

Unequal or insufficient pressure results in rapid wear, uneven braking and heavy steering.

The correct tyre pressures are:
Anglia Saloon - 22lb/sq in (1.54 kg/sq cm) front and rear
Anglia Estate – 24 lb/sq in (1.69 kg/sq cm) front and 30 lb/sq in (2.11 kg/sq cm) rear
Anglia 5cwt Van - 24 lb/sq in (1.69 kg/sq cm) front and rear
Anglia 7cwt Van - 24 lb/sq in (1.69 kg/sq cm) front and 30 lb/sq in (2.11 kg/sq cm) rear
More information about tyres is contained in the General Maintenance for Wheels and Tyres Page

Check the Operation of all Lights
Operate all of the lights one at a time and check that they operate correctly and that there are no blown bulbs. As well as it being unsafe to drive without operating lights, it is also an offense in the UK.
To replace any of the bulbs, follow the steps at the General Maintenance for Lights Page.

Check the Gearbox Oil Level With the car standing on level ground, remove the combined filler and level plug, which is located on the side of the gearbox. Check the oil level, which should be level with the bottom of the filler plug hole. If required, top up with Extreme Pressure Gear Oil. The oil may be added by means of a suitable gun through the combined level and filler plug until the level reaches the bottom of the filler plug hole. Replace the filler plug and tighten securely. The oil in the gearbox should be maintained to the level of the filler plug at all times. Insufficient oil will accelerate wear on the gearbox parts, whilst too high an oil level may result in the oil passing into the clutch housing with consequent ill effects on the clutch facings
Check the Rear Axle Oil Level With the car standing on level ground, remove the combined filler and level plug, which is located halfway up the axle (on earlier cars there is also a drain plug located in the bottom of the axle.) Check the oil level, which should be level with the bottom of the filler plug hole. If required top up with the correct Grade of Oil until the level reaches the filler plug hole. NOTE – Only Hypoid and not ordinary gear oil is to be used in the rear axle. Replace the filler plug and tighten securely. Periodically check the tightness of the filler plug.
Check the Steering Box Oil Level With the car standing on level ground, remove the rubber plug on top of the steering box. Check the oil level, which should be level with the filler plug hole. If required top up with Extreme Pressure Gear Oil until the level reaches the filler plug hole. Replace the rubber plug. The Steering Gear is of the worm and nut and apart from the periodic lubrication described above, requires adjustment and attention only at fairly long intervals
	Check the Fan Belt Adjustment The same V-Shaped belt drives both the generator and water pump. The belt adjustment is correct when, as it is pushed and pulled at a point midway between the generator and water pump pulleys, the total movement of the belt does not exceed ½ in (12.7mm). A loose belt causes slip on the pulleys, while excessive tightness results in wear on the generator and water pump bearings and the belt itself. To adjust the fan belt tension, loosen the two generator lower mounting bolts, one at the front and one at the rear, then loosen the adjustment locking screw at the front of the generator. This will allow the generator to be moved outwards, the adjustment screw sliding in the slotted arm. When the correct tension is obtained, tighten all three bolts securely.
	Check the Clutch Adjustment At Operating Cylinder The amount of free travel on the clutch release arm should be checked and adjusted if necessary. The clearance between the end of the clutch operating rod adjusting nut and the clutch release arm should be 1/16 in (1.6mm) Compensation for wear is easily made by adjusting the length of the clutch operating rod. To obtain the correct clearance, disconnect the release arm return spring, slacken the operating rod locknut and turn the domed adjusting nut at the end of the push rod clockwise to increase the free movement and anti-clockwise to reduce it. After making the adjustment, ensure that the locknut is tightened and the return spring is re-located.
	Check the Windscreen Washer Level (where fitted) The windscreen washer container is located on the left hand side of the engine compartment on the bulkhead next to the heater. The container is made of an opaque plastic and so you should be able to see whether the windscreen washer fluid needs topping up. If the level is low, remove the cap from the container and fill with a suitable screen wash solution. Refit the container cap.

Check the Seat Belts for Security and Wear (where fitted)
Check along the length of the webbing on each belt to see if there are any nicks or tears in the material. Sit in the vehicle and then test the buckle, making sure that it opens and closes smoothly and does not stick. Gently pull on the closed buckle to see if it is secure. Check that the seat belt adjustment works correctly by adjusting the belt to see that the belt moves smoothly through the adjuster and does not snag on anything. (Remember to re-adjust it to your needs before using the car.)

Warning - If the belts look defective in anyway, or you are unsure about what to look for, have the belts checked by your Authorised Ford Dealer or a trained Mechanic. Do not take risks. Your life may depend on the security of the seat belts.

Lubricate all Grease Gun Points
It is essential that a high-pressure grease gun be used to force a good quality grease in to parts equipped with the conical shaped non-return lubricators (grease nipples).

A Grease Gun can be purchased from your Authorised Ford Dealer. To fill the grease gun, remove the cap and plunger, pack the body with grease solidly excluding as much air as possible, then replace the cap and plunger. Use a high grade grease for all bearing surfaces.

It is important that dirt and old grease are cleaned from around the lubricators before applying a grease gun to them.

The lubrication Chart below shows the approximate position of the lubricators.

Lubrication

For convenience the grease gun points are also briefly described separately after the chart.

Grease Gun Point – Track Control Arm - (L1)
The ball joint at the outer end of each track control arm support is fitted with a lubricator, which can be reached from beneath the front of the car, forward of the front suspension cross tube.

Grease Gun Point – Track Rods - (L2)
The ball joint at each end of the right and left hand track rods are fitted with grease gun lubricators.

Grease Gun Point – Steering Arm to Idler Arm Rod - (L3)
A lubricator is fitted at each end of this rod to facilitate lubrication at the ball joints.

Grease Gun Point – Idler Arm (L4)
The upper support bearing on the idler arm bracket has a lubricator fitted in the centre of the retaining cap nut

Grease Gun Point – Universal Joints - (L5)
Each universal joint is fitted with a lubricator at the centre of the spider. Apply a gun containing SAE 250 oil or multi purpose lithium base grease at these points and lubricate as necessary

Lubricate Linkages and Locks
A few drops of light oil should be applied to the accelerator linkage bearings, hand brake clevises, bonnet hinges, door hinges and locks, etc.

The door locks may be lubricated through a small hole in the rear edge of each door, above the lock. Make sure that all runs or drips of oil that are visible on the doors are wiped away with a clean dry cloth to prevent the soiling of clothing when entering the vehicle.

Lubricate the Distributor
Release the two spring clips and remove the distributor cap and rotor. Apply one or two drops of engine oil at the cam retaining screw and spindle to lubricate the distributor shaft bearings.Apply a thin film of petroleum jelly to the contact breaker cam and lubricate the contact breaker pivot post with a small film of engine oil, ensuring that the contact breaker points are not contaminated.

Information taken from Various Ford Anglia Instruction Books and Handbooks.

Warning - The Health and Safety bit.
Please note your health may be at risk if you do not take sensible safety precautions. Never work under an unsupported vehicle, do not take shortcuts. If you feel that the task is beyond your capabilities, then employ the services of a trained professional. The Owner of this Website nor the author cannot be held responsible for any accidents or injury arising from advice given on this webpage. Safety advice can be obtained from the RoSPA.